There has been a Plumed Horse in this spot since 1952, though this decade-old iteration is by far the best. The décor exudes warmth, and the setting is elegant, yet comfortable.This inventive kitchen turns out upscale modern cooking. Duck consommé, poured tableside and enhanced with meaty mushrooms and a bright English pea flan, is as impressive to the eye as it is to the palate, while locally sourced abalone is finished with XO sauce for a pop of flavor. The decadent black pepper- and parmesan-soufflé with an uni petal is of the dive-right-in variety.Almond cake with cocoa-nib mousse and orange foam is decadent, but wait for the rows of chocolates from Chocolaterie by Angelica, wheeled over in a glass-domed cart.