It’s been decades since Tom Colicchio first opened Craft to great acclaim, but the easy charms of the celebrity chef's downtown institution haven’t waned a bit. The urbane setting, with its leather paneling, filament lights and brick-covered columns, is especially convivial and filled every night with well-heeled regulars who flock here to savor the triple threat of cozy décor, elegant food and a crackerjack service team.Dinner might kick off with a cured slice of crudo, served with shaved fennel, radish and microgreens in a Meyer lemon dressing. A plate of gnocchi is comfort food at its very best. Served in a polished copper dish, each tender knob of potato gnocco is bathed in a subtly seasoned, rich butter-cheese sauce.