Efficient, busy from the minute doors open and effortlessly likable, this Italian eatery hiding deep inside the Manhattan West development is everything we’ve come to expect—and enjoy—from restaurateur Danny Meyer. The space features a handsome bar, open kitchen, large windows and ample tilework—all of which will feel familiar to those acquainted with the Union Square Hospitality Group.Chef Hillary Sterling's food is equally inviting. The caramelized onion torta is enough to warrant a return, with melting onions packed into a delicate crust, buried under two kinds of pecorino and finished in the wood-burning oven. Generously rich pastas and hearty proteins are designed for sharing. A simple but arresting lemon torta with mascarpone and olive oil closes out the meal.