Take a seat by the open fire for a drink before your meal and admire the refurbished Art deco interior as you get ready to sample an ode to classicism in a cosmopolitan vibe. Chef Xavier Leys, who avows a weakness for matured meat, cannot be faulted for his textbook craftsmanship when it comes to recipes such as Rossini tournedos or seabass in a salt crust. The focus is on familiar, even regressive comfort food, which is perfectly paired with South-African, French or Italian wines.