Named for a racehorse and just as focused and quick, Speedy Romeo is a sure bet. Part tavern, part roadside grill, its kitschy décor and modern touches transform this former automotive shop into a surprisingly attractive spot. The owner benefited from years at Jean-Georges’ empire, and that intelligence and experience is conveyed through the smart accents and whimsical menu that begins with Italian ingredients. Peppers stuffed with chopped salami, cheese, and topped with breadcrumbs make for a nice opener. Then, take a chance on the non-traditional but utterly fantastic pizza combinations, such as the St. Louis, layering a proper crust with meats, pickled peppers and Midwestern Provel cheese.