What Izuru Sakuragi prizes is the deliciousness born of freshness. Soup stock is made with dried bonito flakes shaved in front of the guests. Some items are toasted over straw, others grilled over charcoal, at the chef’s discretion. Freshly cooked rice is served steaming, with accompaniments chosen for contrast in flavour. The thoughtful timeliness with which Sakuragi asks if guests would like seconds is a welcome touch. The chef’s character and passion shine in his cuisine.