Trained by some of the best (Alain Dutournier, Jean-Michel Lorrain, Alain Ducasse), chef Julien Lainé crafts enticing food that surfs between tradition (leek vinaigrette; veal vol-au-vent; chocolate fondant cake and cocoa sorbet) and modernity (carpaccio of croaker and blood orange dressing; pan-seared line-caught seabass with a haddock emulsion). In a seaside resort such as Pornic, this eatery with two colourful little dining areas and an open kitchen is most welcome.