There may be no more pleasurable place to learn about kappo-style cuisine, which has only recently made inroads into the American dining scene, than this stellar Japanese space, featuring a few tables and a counter crafted from a centuries-old cypress tree. The service is wonderfully engaging and attentive.There are four prix fixe menus, all highlighting the best of the seasons. Chef David Schlosser takes traditional Japanese dishes (and ingredients) and gives them a contemporary boost. Highlights include grilled mochi stuffed with karasumi and tender firefly squid with a sweet soy glaze. Crisp and refreshingly bitter fava beans balance the sweet-savory notes of chawanmushi, and Japanese sea bream with myoga ginger bud and pickled plum paste is a delightful bite.