The ‘Kinshi-don’, invented by this restaurant’s fourth-generation owner-chef, is the house speciality. This bowl of rice topped with unagi is enhanced with kinshi-tamago, ribbons of omelette that are essential in Kyoto dishes such as chirashi-zushi and steamed sushi. Kanesho’s unique approach is to cut the eel along its back, but otherwise to grill it Kansai-style, without steaming. If cut along the belly the ends will be too thin, causing it to cook unevenly.