Elegant kaiseki from the skilled hands of an itamae kappo chef. The view of the preparation from the counter seating is as much fun as the cuisine celebrating seasonal events. Gion Fukushi observes these in flamboyant style: the Hina Doll’s Festival with standing Hina dolls and clam bowls  and the Gion Festival with dishes depicting floats. In early summer the ayu is deep-fried and, in a distinctive flourish, sprinkled with kinome vinegar using a tea whisk.