Owner-chef Daisuke Iwata bills his fare as ‘modern French’. His purpose in using generous portions of vegetables is to showcase the bounty of Kyoto. The salad with 30 kinds of vegetables is a perennial favourite. Selecting a white plate as a canvas, he colours it in with vegetables he buys himself in places such as Kameoka and Kamigamo. His skill in déclinaison – taking a single ingredient and turning it into sauté, sauce and powder, then serving it as a single dish – is unique.