In this sleek restaurant in the centre of Frontignan, the youthful, high-spirited brigade of self-taught chef Grégory Doucey sources top-drawer produce to craft an appetising lineup of no-nonsense family favourites. Big-boned bistronomic fare that wavers between rusticity and modernity, with flavour as the underlying goal: egg meurette (in red wine); calf’s head with ravigote sauce; fillet of mullet and aïgo boulido; paris-brest pastry...